Exploring the 7th Continent : Our Budget Cruise To Antarctica

Exploring With Antarpply, Taking The Small Ship To Antarctica

How To Get To Antarctica

The best way to get to Antarctica for the general public is by taking a cruise from Ushuaia. Ushuaia is one of the southernmost cities in Argentina located at the very bottom of South America. From here expeditions or “cruises” head south for over 2 days of sailing and 1200km across the famous Drake Passage to Antarctica.

Crossing The Drake Passage

Unless budget is of zero concern and you can afford one of the $5000 plus flight packages to Antarctica, the only way to reach the 7th Continent is by sailing the Drake. The Drake passage is a world famous section of rough sea stretching 800km from Cape Horn South America to the Shetland islands.

This passage sometimes has swells bigger than 7m or 23ft and it can be a harrowing experience.

This is the Drake on a calm passage

On our sail days we had a fairly calm passage of 3.5 m but it still felt like a lot of motion on board. Don’t worry they provide dramamine on board, and I highly recommend taking before just in case. This was just trying to walk around!!

Choosing A Big Or A Small Cruise For Antarctica

Despite the Drake Shake passage, bigger is not always better for your cruise. The consortium that makes up the regulations for Antarctica loves rules. One of these is that ships over 500 people are not allowed to have landings at all. The daily limit for each landing site is 100 people.

So the bigger the ship you choose the harder it is to secure your landings. Antarpply’s ship MV Ushuaia carries 90 passengers so everyone gets to go on every excursion. This was a huge reason we chose them.

How To Get The Best Price On Your Cruise

Back in the day, it was common practice to head to Ushuaia and wait for a last minute deal on a cruise. We met some people who did this, but they did have to wait 2 weeks plus.. Unless you have the time and want to risk all the cruises being booked, I would recommend to look for deals online. Most of the providers post the exact same rates online as they do to the agents in town.

We have secured a special discount code for our readers for 10% off Antarpply expeditions if you book direct here! use code- ANTARPPLY-M&P

Landings and Excursions In Antarctica

All our expeditions (zodiac cruises and landings) were included in the initial purchase price. This is not always the case with Antarctica cruises.

Antarpply had a two a day schedule in the Antarctic area. There was usually one expedition at about 9am and a second at 3pm. The excursions were either scenic zodiac cruises that sighted whales, research stations and icebergs, or shore landings where you could explore.

Things that surprised us about landings

• Its very common for excursions to be weather cancelled
• You can’t touch the ground on shore, everything has to stay elevated
• There is no squatting or kneeling
• Boots must be sterilized before leaving the ship and again when returning
• Drones are usually banned unless permitted (we got a permit)
• You need to give all wildlife atleast 5 meters of space
• penguins do sometimes approach you, they are not scared of humans at all
• Some of the birds are ground nesting and quite territorial
• You get cold very quickly in the wind, make sure to bundle up

Things that surprised us about the zodiac cruise

• Wildlife seems very unbothered by the zodiacs
• It was common to see seals, whales and birds
• Even though you stay 100m away from whales, they would commonly come close and investigate.
• Only 8 people are allowed per boat, so there is lots of room
• You sit sideways on the edge of the Zodiac not in seats, but it is very stable and safe.
• The drivers are very flexible if passengers want to explore certain areas

We were surprised how much room there was on the Zodiacs!

What an Expedition Means!

Do You Want a Cruise or an Expedition?

Antarpply really is an expedition and not a cruise. The main focus of the whole experience is to get you as much time as possible off the ship exploring Antartica. The expedition focuses on adventure, so everyone has the opportunity to have 2 activities a day, which include landings and zodiac cruises.

If you are looking for a luxury cruise, this is not for you.  The food is good, but not excellent, the bar is cheap and cheerful and the lounge is comfortable and social. There is lots of deck space to explore and big windows in all the main areas which made the social areas great for sightings. The daily briefings by the onboard Historian and Biologist were great and the 24/7 coffee machine was also amazing.

Whenever there was a landing cancellation due to Ice or weather the captain and expedition leader would have several backup options available. They never hesitated to completely change course to make sure we still got an experience. We were very thankful that we only fully missed one activity out of 10!

It really is what you make it. We fully believe that this was the best possible cruise for us. If we wanted 5 star dining and all you can drink cocktails, we were not going to fly to the literal bottom of the world for it, you cant get that at home!

Nothing wrong with luxury at all. But If that is what appeals to you; you are looking for a cruise and this is probably not your type of ship!

What the Boat is Like

The MV Ushuaia – Lots of outdoor viewing space

Quick stats

• 84m (278 feet)
• 90 passengers capacity
• Built – 1970 renovated in 2002
• max speed 14 knots
• 8 zodiacs

We had no idea what to expect when we boarded the ship. Upon walking onto the pier, the first thing we noticed was how small the ship was in comparison to all of the cruises leaving for Antarctica. Antarpply is one of the smallest ships that leaves to Antarctica, but do not let this worry you. We wanted to go on this expedition because it was a small cruise and there was less people. 

Surprising Antarctica Shore Rules

Many people may not know this, but only 100 people or less can go to shore on Antarctica at a time. Antarpply only has 90 guests, which means everyone can go to shore everyday. Some ships are quite large (400 people or more), which means you can’t go to shore frequently. 

For us, the landings were the most important part of this trip, so we loved that our ship was smaller. We came to Antarctica to visit Antarctica not hang out on the ship. Antarppaly is perfect if your a willing to sacrifice some luxuries for extra adventures.

What to Expect on the MV Ushuaia

The MV Ushuaia is a converted research vessel, so it really is one of the most basic cruises to Antarctica, so you will not have a gym, sauna, room service, etc. However, the staff was really amazing and they made it fun by having movies and lectures, and there was even a karaoke night and a talent show arranged, it was hilarious. We found that the people we met on the cruise were very social and had an average age of 30-50. Everyone was very well travelled and up for an adventure!

We met lots of cool people on board!

There is a Doctor on board and all medical consults are free between 8am and 8pm. She has ample sea sick medication for everyone that is complimentary too. If you do need to see her outside of these hours, there is a fee.

Even though the cruise is budget friendly it is extremely well organized and everything that matters is taken care of.

One of the daily briefings

There are daily lectures and briefings, that explain the upcoming day and recap of your excursions. They have an onboard historian and biologist that go with you on excursions and explain everything your are seeing. The staff are always around to answer any questions you may have.

Lounge Area Onboard

The lounge area of the ship is very comfortable and it has huge windows to look outside. There are loungers and several tv’s to watch the lectures and movies during the day. There is a small library and games section, and a couple of souvenirs that you can buy in a display. There is a coffee and hot chocolate machine that is available all day long for free as well.

There is also another smaller lounge area that is quieter with larger seats. This was a great area to sit if you wanted to get some work done or watch shows on your computer.

Open Bridge Policy on the MV Ushuaia

When conditions are normal you are allowed to hang out in the bridge, use their binoculars and socialize with the officers. They are always happy to chat and talk about the navigation and what’s happening on the ship.

Megs whale spotting on the bridge.

Rooms On The MV Ushuaia

Our humble abode with private bathroom! There were many different room classes and configurations on the ship. They ranged from individual suites to shared bunk style rooms with shared bathrooms. Our swas a Superior Twin Cabin and we were very happy with the space.

One thing about the booking team that I really liked is if you are travelling solo they will pair you up with the same fare class. This means you get to make a friend and you don’t have to pay more if you are travelling solo.

Food Onboard

Breakfast

We were pleasantly surprised with the food. Breakfasts were the same everyday and it was a buffet with melon, pineapple, dried prunes, raisins, oatmeal, cereals, milk, strawberry and vanilla yogurt, scrambled eggs, bacon, media lunas (Argentine croissants) and toast. Endless drip coffee, tea and milk was also served with breakfast.

Lunch and Dinner

Lunches and dinner looked very similar everyday, but there was a variety of foods. Both meals were a set 3 course meal with an appetizer, main and desert. There was always a vegetarian option if you do not eat meat or did not like the main. You could also eat as many meals as you would like, you just need to ask for another portion. 

Asado day!

Dinner and Lunch Examples

• Carrot soup, chicken pesto with mashed potatoes, rice pudding
• Salad, beef fillet with potatoes, fresh fruit
• Couscous, pasta bolognese, bread pudding

Snacks

We brought a lot of snacks on this trip and we found that we did not need that much extra food. Like I said prior, you can eat as much as you like at meals, and there was always fresh fruit to eat in the lounge and there was sandwiches and pastries put out around 4pm. You also can’t bring food onto shore in Antarctica, so hiking snacks are not needed.

What to Bring

I am going to attach a full packing list link, but the main things to bring are going to be comfortable clothes for lounging, base layers, water proof pants, warm socks, gloves, toque, and a parka. Lots of layers, Antarctica is COOOLD! You do not need to bring anything fancy, it is very casual. 

Shoes

The ship provides rubber boots, but they are not insulated, so make sure you have at least 2 good quality socks to wear with them. I would strongly recommend bringing insoles and thick socks. You are not allowed to wear open toed shoes on the ship, so sandals are not needed. 

We took the insoles out of our hiking boots and put them in the rubber boots and it made a world of difference.

Extras 

• Make sure that you have good polarized sunglasses
• sunscreen
• backpack for landings as nothing is allowed to touch the ground in Antarctica
• dry bag for electronics, there are lots of zodiac landings
• A warm hat
• Gloves
• We brought rain pants but snow type pants would have worked as well.
• You don’t so much get wet as much as you do splashed on the zodiacs, so anything a little bit waterproof will work fine.
• Lipchap with sunscreen

The nicer rooms gets a little swag bag that comes with ear plugs, eye mask, slippers, chocolates, dental kit, grippy socks, and a little bag. 

Camera For Antarctica

A good Camera and some long lenses is recommended! I used a Sigma 100-400 and my Sony A74. I also made sure to bring a circular polarizer, I think it really helped for photos of Icebergs.

It was perfect for onshore and whale watching from ship. I think a something a bit wider like a Tamron 70-300 could work great. I found the 100m was a bit to tight to take photos while on the zodiacs.

What I wish I brought to Antarctica

You do not need a lot of extras on this trip, I would have liked to have a coffee cup, as their mugs are small and there was a bit of waste with the disposable one use cups. 

• Earplugs
• Thermal boot insoles
• Glove liners
• Hand warming pouches
• A good book
• Aeropress and good coffee
• Decaf tea all the provided tea is caffinated
• Long acting nausea mediciine – Meclizine
• Bright jackets for photos – orange and red are great

What I wish I didn’t bring

• Towel (they provide)
• Sandals
• Bottles of wine

Wine on board is very reasonable at $18 usd per bottle but corkage is $30. Bringing your own wine is only worth it if you have a very particular or expensive bottle you like.

They also had full bottles of liquor available for $100. It’s actually really great because you can buy a bottle (or wine) and they will keep it at the bar and happily serve you whenever you like.

Antarpply offers a couple different expeditions. We opted for the 12 day Weddell Sea route.

Our 12 Day Weddell Sea Quest Itinerary

This was a great choice for us because we got to see the more remote Weddell Sea famous for its tabular icebergs as well as the traditional Antarctican peninsula.

The western side of the Antarctican peninsula generally has more animals and more impressive mountains so it really was the best of both worlds. We also felt like if we are flying all the way down to Ushuaia we wanted to give ourselves a longer weather window to guarantee some good landings. It is Antarctica after all!

Day 1 – Leaving Ushuaia

We boarded the ship at 4pm on the first day and had an hour to explore and get situated in our rooms before we had a little introduction party. They gave us all complimentary champagne, cakes and charcuterie boards and we set sail around 6pm. It was a great first day!

Day 2 The Drake

This was a full sea day, and the most intense day on the boat, as the waves were huge. We had a hard time getting used to it but we personally did not get sick, but we did find that almost half the people on the ship had really bad sea-sickness. The Dr. on board did give us meds to take at the meals to avoid sea-sickness so I think that really helped!

Drake Passage

We can confirm that the Drake Shake is real. The Drake Passage is a 1100km passage from the tip of South America to Antarctica. It is known for it’s intense swells and rocky crossing. It takes about 48 hours to cross the Drake. The boat supplied anti sea sick medication.

No one loves the Drake but its the only way to get here!

Day 3 The Drake

The drake – this day will be spent attending lectures watching movies and trying not to get sea sick. They close the outer deck for this section of the passage. Bring a good book!

Day 4 Weddell Sea

9:00 AM – We have crossed the Drake and it’s time to explore! Unfortunately our first landing at Paulet Island was cancelled due to ice flows. Instead of landing on the island we did a scenic zodiac cruise.

3:00 PM – Our Antarctic continental landing at Brown’s Beach. We have officially stepped foot on our 7th Continent!

Day 5 Weddell Sea

9:00 AM Snow Hill landing cancelled due to weather. We landed at False Island Point instead and explored.

3:00 PM -Second Shore landing at Devil Island to see penguins colonies and ice flows. Spotted a leopard seal lounging on an iceberg.

Day 6 Antarctic Peninsula

9:00 AM – Scenic zodiac cruise to check out the Argentine Research Base Esperanza, it was very cool!

3:00 PM – Landing at Gourdin Island cancelled due to large swell, replaced with a lecture about whales.

Day 7 Antarctic Peninsula

9:00 AM – Whale watching zodiac tour of Cierva Cove – We spotted humpbacks

A pod of orcas follows the ship!

5:00 PM – Exploring Gentoo Penguin colonies and an old whaling station on shore at MIkkelsen Harbour

Day 8 Antarctic Peninsula

9:00 AM – Landing on Hydruga Rocks to see Chinstrap penguins, Elephant, Fur and Weddell seals.

My favourite penguin, look how grubby he is!

3:00 PM – Leige Island zodiac cruise through a narrow channel full of mountains and icebergs, very impressive

Day 9 The Shetland Islands

9:00 AM – Telefon Island landing and POLAR PLUNGE!

This was a big day for every one! They set up towels on the beach and had zodiacs ripping back to the ship as soon as you came out of the water.

3:00 PM – Walker Bay Landing to see Elephant seals and penguins!

Day 10 The Drake

Sailing past the Shetlands and returning to Ushuaia!

Day 11 The Drake

Sea day on the Drake. Here is a common sea day schedule for you to check out.

Day 12 Leaving 🙁

We arrived at port early the night before after one last game of Uno and a champagne celebration with our new friends!

We awoke to one last good morning from Martin our expedition leader, then we headed down to breakfast and left the ship around 8AM and went to the airport. Time to be responsible for ourselves again! It’s such a weird feeling leaving an expedition where everything is taken care of for you and then you are just out in the world again.

What An Average Antarctic Cruise Day Looks Like

• 7:00 Wake up announcement
• 7:30 Breakfast
• 9:00 First expedition return by 11:30
• 12:00 Lunch
• 3:00 Second expedition
• 5:00 Snacks and coffees at bar
• 6:30 Daily briefing in lounge
• 7:00 Dinner
• 8:30 Movies in the lounge ,drinks or “Talent Shows”

Overall it was quite an active schedule, but we found ourselves getting into the routine quite quickly.

Where To Stay Before Your Antarctica Cruise

Lets face it ,even if you are taking a budget cruise to Antarctica it still costs a pretty penny. We decided to start our trip somewhere fancy and stayed at the Arakur.

This place was worth every penny and a fabulous value for a 5 star compared to North America, Booking link here! The pool view over the town was incredible.

If you are looking to keep the thrifty mind set going, there are lots of great options in town where you can walk straight to the pier before and after you cruise!

Here is a map of some highly rated places that are walkable to the pier.

Have more time for Patagonia?

If you still have some days left in the itinerary check out our Perfect 2 week total Patagonia itinerary. El Calafate has lots of great bus connections to Puerto Natales and the drive isn’t bad either. Why not explore the incredible Torres Del Paine National park while you are here!